First Month in Panama

Panam City Skyline Looking East

It was around 1pm on the afternoon of June 30th, when we arrived at the Airport in Liberia, Costa Rica to check in for our flight back to Panama.  It was hot, very hot. Looking at the skies above, It seemed like they were taking on that stormy look which was not that surprising as the rainy season should have started two months ago.

We checked in and had our bags weighed and found that we had three hours to wait for our flight. After walking around the limited outlets inside having cleared security we sat down in Players Bar to watch one of the games being played in the FIFA World Cup.  

With slightly less than two hours before departure, we sat patiently waiting for the aircraft to arrive.  We were due to depart at 4:05pm. By 4pm, there was still no aircraft at the gate. We thought this strange because we have always been used to boarding around 20 minutes before takeoff.

There were a few people sitting around eyeing each other up then all of a sudden the fellow who had checked our baggage in hours before appeared in the departure lounge and opened a gate for us.  He pointed to a lone door down a passageway which we would have to go through to begin boarding.   

Wow, I thought, we aren't going down the ramp like we normally do. What's going on?  The door at the end of the corridor opened to the outside of the building.  The clerk beckoned to us to come to the open door. 

No....This can't be happening to US!

Once outside, we saw a small 12 seater Cessna sat on the tarmac but this wasn't....couldn't be our aircraft I thought to myself. As I glanced upwards towards the sky while navigating the steps to the asphalt parking area I could see the skies taking on a distinctly ugly look.  Much worse than when we had first arrived. The clouds were darkening and a few droplets of rain began to fall.

Thank God, I thought as I saw some people alighting from the aircraft on the tarmac. It's not ours, but where's our plane? At the bottom of the metal stairs the Captain of the Cessna that just landed turned and made a gesture to us to suggest we go around him to the other side of the aircraft. Yep! It's ours I thought. Just what someone who doesn't particularly care for flying needs!

After climbing the steps into the aircraft, all eleven passengers sat in our seats watching the pilot do his visual checks along with the first officer who was sat in the right hand seat.  

The rain was now falling steadily on the pilot's windshield.  There were no walls or door separating the pilot and first officer from the passengers. We were just one big happy family all sat together enjoying what for some of us was a "first" in our avionic travel experiences.  This felt like the aircraft I used to skydive from many years ago, only slightly larger I thought to myself as we eyed the pilot going through his check list.  

Seated immediately behind the pilot, one young tall blond American fellow probably around 6' 6" in his mid 20's said in a loud voice to the people sat on his right, "you ever flown in one of these?". "No!" the guy answered. "Well, this will be an experience you will never forget.  I can guarantee that. I live in Southern Costa Rica and I fly in these all the time so I know", and with that he placed his expensive stereo headset on his head, leaned back, closed his eyes and listened to his music on his iPod.

There were a few snickers from the remaining travellers then dead silence as the roar of the engine and the revs increased to full power.  Did I say "engine?"...yes ONE ENGINE, which did not altogether enthral me.

Feeling around beneath my seat as the aircraft moved forward towards the runway, I found no sign of a parachute or a life jacket or barf bag. 

I glanced at Donna. She seemed oblivious to my thoughts and was OK with it so, I relaxed and took in the pitter-patter of the rain on the pilot's windshield.

Racing down the runway the aircraft bouncing around on noticeably great suspension, all of a sudden the bouncing stopped and one knew one was finally airborne.  The flight took 45 minutes. We skirted some of the thicker rising cumulus clouds on the way, so the overall flight was smooth.  Very pleasant and relaxed I thought to myself as the wheels touched Terra Firma. I really enjoyed it. 

The Approach to San Jose International Airport, Cost Rica.  If you look closely, you can see the runway ahead in the middle of the pilot's window

Now at at San Jose International airport, we grabbed our luggage quickly as we had been delayed at the Liberia airport.  We knew we did not have that long before the connecting flight to Panama departed. 

We arrived at the check-in and showed the lady our tickets.  She told us they were closing the gate as the passengers were boarding.  Then she realized we had already checked in while in Liberia, so she quickly frog-marched us along the airport terminal and pointed to the security area. 

Giving us a hurry up gesture with both hands, she disappeared.  We were through security and arrived at the gate as the last people were being processed...whew, just in time.

No sooner had we taken off, the stewards and stewardesses came by offering hot sandwiches and free drinks.  Donna had a wine and I enjoyed a Scotch.....all totally free. Copa Airlines does a great job of looking after their passengers, not nickel and diming the passengers like most of the other airlines do today. 

Donna was sat three rows forward in a window seat.  I was in an aisle seat. I was just about to take a sip of my Scotch, when the aircraft lurched violently to the right and must have dropped a long way as the hand holding my Scotch all of a sudden was way above my head as high as it would go. Then, my scotch slammed against the tray again, then back up, then down onto the table once more. The aircraft lurched violently to the left this time.  I thought I saw it bend slightly in the middle section. It was VERY SCARY.

To say there were some expletives emanating from some of the passengers mouths would be an understatement as the aircraft jolted us back and forth. People had drinks strewn everywhere, down their clothing, on their seats and even in the aisle.

The Pilot's voice came loud and clear over the speaker system and in a noticeably urgent voice he ordered the refreshments closed immediately and the stewards to return to their seats.

I glance over to my immediate right. In the same row on the opposite side of the aisle there were three children all smiling and laughing.....How could they? I thought to myself. I glance behind them where mom and dad were sitting. They were from Florida in the US returning after a vacation in Costa Rica.  

The husband's head was buried deep into his hands and he was as white as a sheet. His wife snickered quietly as she shot a glance my way.

I offered him a drink of my water saying "hey buddy, are you all right?". He nodded his head side to side in a kind of NO gesture - picked his head out of his hands, looked directly at me and with a very white face and wide eyes he replied "I think I just shat".  His wife immediately burst into laughter and I followed suit.  He seemed not to be amused.  

We were about 15 minutes out of Panama City when this all took place. Then, as quick as it began, there was nothing.  We were flying very smoothly once more.

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Before we knew it we were safely on the ground. We went through immigration, picked up our bags and proceeded to Customs.  

The Hotel shuttle bus pulled up and we got in and were whisked away.  It was around 8:30 pm.  It was very dark, hot and humid.  

We were lucky enough to get a room right by the pool. After a quick glass of wine at the outdoor bar, we sat at a table next to a bunch of "Brits" who must have just arrived in Panama.  

They were obviously not on the same body clock yet as they had just ordered a massive meal and it was close to 9:30 pm.  It started to rain. We left the shelter of the covered sitting area and jumped into the pool to cool down.  

The following morning, the owner of a company called Roadrunner (a Canadian) met us promptly at our hotel as arranged and conveyed us the hours journey to Nuevo Gorgona where we met up with Frank, an American who owns and runs a restaurant and bar with his Panamanian wife Dilcia. The cost of the ride was $100.

He gave us directions to our new home for the next two months.  He said, Dilcia was already at the house and would meet us there.  Neil, the driver/owner drove us to the house. 

The house was a vivid yellow (amarillo) house that would look really strange in Canada but it fit in with all the other wild colours of homes here. It was a three bedroom bungalow with a nice pool. It has air conditioning in all bedrooms and there is a TV and sound system oh and a dishwasher that uses no electricity at all..........Me!  

The home is fully equipped and owned by a couple from St. Albert, Alberta, Canada who will eventually retire to Panama in a couple of years. We met one of the owners Brian, when he came to Calgary a few months before. He was very accommodating and has bent over backwards to help us out, even renting us his own SUV while we were in Panama.

We had Frank and Dilcia  over for a swim one evening.  We got to talking and not long after it was pitch black, so we decided to invite them to stay for supper.  

We put a tenderloin on the charcoal BBQ and cooked it slowly.  It was delicious. The whole loin cost us just $24. It was not quite as large as the tenderloins we get at Costco in the US or Canada as the cows are not as large or as fat and the Chateaubriand part of the loin (the real thick piece at the end) is not on any of the tenderloins.

Frank and Dilcia.  Frank is Ex US Army and has lived here for years and married to Dilcia for 35 years.

Brian's home, the one we rented for two months and are staying in now.

The pool has been like manna from heaven.  We use it three or four times a day.

Our first week was relatively quiet. We have driven around Gorgona and Coronado to get a flavour of the place.  We have decided that Gorgona is not for us, but we have decided that maybe Coronado, or the Decamaron or JW Marriot development a little further west of Coronado might be more our style.    

Most of the houses in Coronado are in a gated community, occupied by Panamanians and Ex Pats together. It has a nice feel to it but the roads within the community are pretty bad. It is certainly not like living in Canada or the US.

We have met up with a lady real estate representative.  Sarah is single and is from Vancouver BC.  She built up her own property management company in Whistler BC and has evidently done well for herself here in Panama where she has lived for eight years. In some ways, she reminds me of Joanne, one of the Realtors who used to work for us back in Calgary.

She enjoys what she does so we decided to give her our business as long as she feels she is up for the challenge.  She did so that was it.  Decision made.

Sarah and Donna in Sarah's back yard

Sarah's pool in her yard

Her back yard from her covered porch - Heaven on Earth.  Just what we are looking for

The front of Sarah's home in Coronado

We contacted Sarah through Donna's efforts on the computer.  Sarah showed us property and although we have not found our niche property yet, we are hopeful we will eventually.  We have come close a couple of times but we want to wait until we are paid out on the sale of our home in Mesquite which we sold while in Costa Rica. When we return, we will rent until we find the exact right home with a pool. We are both on side with this.  

On the ninth day, we took a drive into Panama City back to Tocumen airport as we wanted to do a dry run so we could pick up our friends Jerry and Liane when they arrive to stay with us for five weeks on July 25th. 

Panama City Skyline is very attractive. It is a sophisticated downtown core and looks every bit as nice as Calgary or her sister city Denver in the US.  The buildings are almost futuristic which is really nice as the skyscrapers reach high into the sky overlooking the Pacific Ocean. It has a definite Miami feel to it.  It is a very crowded city.  The traffic is a bit of a problem but it's like any other city. More people, more traffic. That's life

We have made friends with a couple here that we met on one of the Facebook Groups we belong to who have an apartment on the 51st floor of one of the skyscraper condo units. They have owned it for a number of years. They already have their Pensionado Visa's that allow them to live here permanently. 

Chris and Dick arrived from California the same day we did. They intend to stay for two months to see if they seriously want to reside here permanently. They have shipped all their belongings so it looks like that will happen.  

The apartment they own in Panama City has a gorgeous view of the bay leading to the Panama Canal and the city skyline.  It would have from 51 floors up.

Next week, we will drive back into Panama City to stay at one of Sarah's apartments for five nights so we can be at the airport first thing to meet Jerry and Liane as they would have been flying all night arriving at 8:00am.  

The next four days we will spend travelling around the city to see some of the gorgeous buildings and architecture that exist here.  We will take in the old City at Casco Viejo (pronounced Casco Vieho) that is lined with really nice restaurants and must be seen they say, by day and at night.  There is no reason to drive a car in Panama City as taxis are really inexpensive being $2 - $5 for rides around the city so we have been told.  

This beautiful Osprey comes and sits on the electric pole outside our home here every morning and evening.

We have enjoyed some good food here too. One day, while watching the final of the world Cup Soccer, a gentleman who is a local fisherman walked into the local pub/restaurant La Ruina owned by Frank and Dilcia and asked if anyone would like some lagostinos (Giant Shrimp). He said they were fresh off the boat this morning.  Frank asked me and I asked the fisherman how much he was selling them for. He said $6 lb.  He had 8 lb and if I wanted them it was all or nothing.  I jumped the the chance.  

He jumped into the SUV I was driving and pointed down the road towards the ocean. We arrived at the fishing huts and his wife pulled out a huge bucket of shrimp. I had never seen shrimp this large in my life. She weighed them out. There was 8.5 lbs which amounted to 50 shrimp.

I paid him and he placed them into a bag for me and we returned to the bar where he enjoyed a cold beer. He also told me, I could get fresh Red Snapper or fish from him for $2.50 per lb any day of the week except the weekends.  Below is a picture of the lagostino I brought from him.

The red background is a full sized cutting board with brown paper laid over the top

To give some perspective.  I have large hands and these Lagostinos filled my hand, every one of them.

Here is a great recipe below.  I re-created it once I had eaten it several times in Ecuador, South America

My Camarones (Shrimp Soup) Try it. You will never forget it.

Donna's Sister Carol and Brother-In-Law Ib who had visited us in Costa Rica for a couple of weeks had just had a garage sale at their home in Calgary before they left.  Among the piles of stuff they came across was a shrimping tool. It peels and de-veins shrimp in one go. The package had never been opened so they brought it with them to Costa Rica and gave it to us as a gift.  

All I have to say to them is thank you guys. It is a tool worth having and one I will keep by my side forever.  It must have cost all of $2 originally but it is the best most practical tool I have used in a long time.   

I beheaded the shrimp then peeled them and de-veined all 50 of these lagostinos with that tool.  It was a breeze.  You know what they say.....You don't know what you have lost until you don't have it anymore.  

Next week we will meet with the Abogado (Lawyer), a Panamanian with dual Canadian Citizenship who returned to Panama after 15 years in Canada.  He will begin the processing of our applications for our Pensionado Visas for permanent residence in Panama.  

While in Panama City we will take a trip to the Panama Canal and watch the massive ships go through the locks that lift these ships over the mountains from both the Atlantic/Caribbean and Pacific Sides of Panama saving them thousands of miles of shipping and tons of fuel.  It should be fun. There is a considerable expansion of the canal going on at the moment to increase the number of ships they can process as it takes about 24 hours once the ships reach the entrances for them to be processed and taken through the canal to the other side. 

There's lots of stuff to see, and we cannot see it all this visit but we will have plenty of time once we have our pensionado Visas ensuring we can live here for the rest of our lives if we wish to.  If we don't, we can come and go as many times as we would like and stay as long as we like.  

After our visit to the City, it will be be back to the house to continue our great adventure until the four of us fly back to Las Vegas on September 1.

Is it hot here. You Bet. It is also very humid.  Yesterday it was 91 F but it felt like 107 with the humidity. Many Canadians and American Ex Pats find it difficult to come to terms with those temperatures.  Those who cannot head for the hills in places such as El Valle, Boquete and Altos Del Maria where it is cooler and wetter in general but one does eventually get used to the heat and humidity.

However, that being said, It's a must to have a swimming pool if you purchase a single family home here.  We have been using the pool 3 or 4 times a day and often, we are in the pool for an hour or more each time. No need for a heater. The sun heats the water to what we would call luke-warm. In fact, it comes out of the cold water taps almost luke-warm anyway and it stays like that all year around as the temperatures never change.  

Below is a link to what it looks like at the time of writing this blog. Click here: Weather in Panama

Panama IS a fascinating and relatively inexpensive country.  it is diverse but we have noticed that there are two levels of income earners here. The very wealthy or those who are not poor but not well off either. There does not seem to be a middle class of people here.  

Another thing that is hard to get over is the amount of garbage lying around. People seem oblivious to garbage. Garbage collection is infrequent and the birds and animals pull the garbage bags to pieces littering everywhere.  It's a big problem and one that could be solved so easily by education and fines but the Panamanian authorities don't seem to worry about it. It's a hard thing to get over, but it is only a fraction of the big picture. Many Ex Pats feel the same but overall, they can offset the garbage with the benefits of living here.   

Well. It's time once more to close on this portion of our blog but we will have more pictures and a few more stories to  come at the end of month two in five weeks time.  

Stay safe everyone........./and the adventure continues.